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ost people in the Middle
Ages wore woolen clothing, with undergarments made of
linen. Brighter colors, better materials, and a longer
jacket length were usually signs of greater wealth. The clothing
of the aristocracy and wealthy merchants tended to be
elaborate and changed according to the dictates of
fashion. Towards the end of the Middle Ages, men of the
wealthy classes sported hose and a jacket, often with
pleating or skirting, or a tunic with a surcoat. Women
wore flowing gowns and elaborate headwear, ranging from
headdresses shaped like hearts or butterflies to tall
steeple caps and Italian turbans. Most of the holy
orders wore long woolen habits in emulation of Roman
clothing. One could tell the order by the color of the
habit: the Benedictines wore black; the Cistercians,
undyed wool or white. St. Benedict stated that a monk's
clothes should be plain but comfortable and they were
allowed to wear linen coifs to keep their heads warm. The
Poor Clare Sisters, an order of Franciscan nuns, had to
petition the Pope in order to be permitted to wear woolen
socks.
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